Arran
Almost every time we leave Glasgow and venture into the Scottish countryside I utter these words “I feel so sorry for people that don’t get to come to Scotland” does that sound patronising? I don’t mean it to I just want everyone to feel the magic that I feel when I’m surrounded by the mountains, lochs and glens that Scotland is so famous for. This weekend we took a last minute to trip to Arran, which has all the best bits of Scotland crammed onto an island just 167 miles square, and it was chocked full of unforgettable magic moments:
1: Fireworks
Huddling by the bonfire on Lamlash beach watching fireworks explode over Holy Isle, then retreating to a cosy pub to sip locally distilled Arran whisky. Romantic or what?!
Holy Isle: An island that has long been a sacred site, featuring a well with healing powers, caves which used to be home to monks and vikings and resident wild goats and ponies. Holy Isle is now owned by the Samye Ling Buddhist Community and offers various retreats and courses on meditation, Tai Chi and Yoga. Or you can visit the island by boat or kayak to enjoy a walk on the rugged landscape and stop for a cup of tea in the information centre.
Isle of Arran Distillers: The only distillery on the island, Isle of Arran Distillers produce whiskies of various ages and expressions (we tried one which had been finished in a port cask and it was delicious) using traditional methods and materials. Although this distillery opened in 1994 people have been making whisky on the island for much, much longer - although not always legally!
2: Sunrise
Waking up super early on a very chilly November morning and putting on all available clothes, gloves and hats to watch the sunrise over Holy Isle. I watched a heron catching his breakfast and two seals playing just off the shore. Has someone choreographed this? Surely it's too perfect to be real!
Wildlife on Arran: Arran is packed full of wildlife including Scotland’s Big Five: Red Squirrels, Seals, Otters, Red Deer and Golden Eagles. But you might also be lucky enough to see basking sharks, proposes, dolphins and minke whales as well as a huge variety of birds.
3: Seals & SUPs
Arriving at Brodick bay for an early morning paddle to find the sun bursting out of the sky, the water calm and the bay devoid of humans but full of seals. I spent hours touring around the bay trailed by the seals who seemed to be having a lovely time splashing around my board. I can’t explain how this felt, I was grinning from ear to ear, a proper close encounter and a morning I'll never forget.
Paddle boarding on Arran: There are lochs on Arran (including Loch Tanna, Loch Garbed and Coire Fhionn) but I think they all require at least a mile walk to get there and my paddle board is heavy so I headed for the sea. I paddled in Brodick Bay and I think the bay at Lochranza could also be good but be aware of your own abilities, check the weather and always let someone know where you’re going, if possible, don’t go alone. Never directly approach wildlife, if they come to you (like they did to me) I think that’s ok but I never paddle towards them.
4: Magical Forests
Taking a walk to the Eas Mor waterfall, standing in the forest with sunbeams cutting through the trees and looking out over the small islands Pladda and Ailsa Craig. Then feeling like we’d stumbled into a fairy tale when we reached a wooden cabin which acts as an eco library, it’s walls and ceiling are covered in paper notes from previous visitors and it’s roof is covered in turf and greenery.
Eas Mor: Most famous for it’s 103 foot high waterfall which drops down into a ravine knows as The Hidden Valley, Eas Mor aims to make the forest accessible for people who might otherwise struggle to get into the outdoors. The library we visited was built using wind blown timber from a storm in 1998 and there’s a real focus on recycling and protecting the local environment.
Ailsa Craig: This island is actually the volcanic plug from an extinct volcano and is instantly recognisable by it’s conic shape. The island has a pretty colourful history which includes a Spanish Invasion and tales of smuggling but these days it’s a bird sanctuary and home to thousands of gannets and an increasingly large population of puffins.
5: The Grand Finale
Leaving the island on the ferry, standing at the stern drinking hot chocolate and watching the fireworks on Brodick beach. Then walking to the bow to see more fireworks lighting up the sky all over the mainland as our boat sailed directly through the path of a huge full moon all the way home. Jaw dropping!
Calmac Ferries: The only way to get to Arran (unless you happen to have your own boat), there are two routes: Ardrossan to Brodick and Claoniag in Kintyre to Lochranza (or Tarbert to Lochranza in the winter).
Arran isn’t far from the mainland but it feels worlds away and I really believe there’s something here for everyone. If you only go to Scotland once, go to Arran, I promise you won’t regret it!
Where we stayed
Arran Sleep Huts: http://www.arransleephuts.com
Where we ate
The Wineport: http://www.wineport.co.uk
The Pierhead Tavern: http://www.thepht.co.uk
Little Rock Cafe: https://en-gb.facebook.com/littlerockarran/
Cruize at Auchrannie: http://www.auchrannie.co.uk/food-drink/cruize-bar-brasserie.html
How we travelled
Calmac Ferries: https://www.calmac.co.uk
My board
Fanatic Pure Air: http://bit.ly/2zzIOvp
Shout out
The Brodick Bay seals: You made my day / life