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Arisaig: A week on the water

  • Writer: Lynsey McCarthy
    Lynsey McCarthy
  • Oct 10, 2017
  • 6 min read

Last week we took a trip to my very favourite place and namesake of this blog - Arisaig!

We’d booked the trip 12 weeks in advance and were counting down the days until we could pack up the Land Rover and head West. Unfortunately between booking and leaving we both picked up sports injuries but no matter, cycling and hiking may have been out but open water swimming, paddle boarding and kayaking were in!

Here’s a run down of our favourite places to get on and in the water:

1: Onich

We passed through Ballachulish and Onich on our way back from a trip last month and thought it was beautiful so we decided to break our journey and stay for the night - it did not disappoint!

We arrived at the Onich Hotel on Sunday evening and were pleased to find we could access Loch Linnhe from right in front of the hotel. By the time we'd checked in, got our wetsuits on and blown up my paddle board the sun was starting to set, the water was still and it was eerily quiet. I had a glorious paddle while Graham swam laps around a bouy, then we sat on my board in the shallows watching fishing boats bring in their catch eagerly trailed by a cheeky seal.

The next morning we were back on the water before breakfast and were treated to another spectacular paddle (and swim). The surface of the loch was silver like a mirror and the mist was rolling off the mountains to rest on the surface as the sun rose over the Ballachulish Bridge. These mornings on the water are hard to describe, they feel magical and, weirdly, quite emotional.

2: The Arisaig Skerries

I’d hoped to go out on an paddle board tour with the Arisaig Sea Kayak centre to improve my skills and get some experience of the area with a guide before venturing out on my own. Sadly their SUP guide was away so I decided to go out kayaking instead.

We launched from a rocky bit of shore on the road to Rhu and set off. The Skerries, which are a cluster of small islands, are brilliant for kayaking because the the water is shallow and amazingly clear. The Skerries come in two forms: 1: Rocky and covered in seals, 2: With white sandy beaches that are ideal for landing on to explore and refuel on Twix bars. The seals are by far the star of the show for me and it’s why I keep going back, you’re often totally surrounded by sleek snorting heads popping up out of the water and big curious eyes watch your every move as you glide through the water.

The skerries are incredible but I’m not sure I’d tackle them on my SUP, this trip was a real challenge even in a kayak. It was windy when we set off but as we got further out the wind really picked up and although we could use the skerries for shelter there were some crossings that really challenged me. My arms were tired and sore, my kayak was tilting violently and I felt a tinge of fear more than once but my guide Rory was amazing and I did learn a lot of valuable and paddle board transferable skills.

3: The Silver Sands of Morar

This is actually an estuary where the river that flows from Loch Morar meets the sea and, as it turns out, it's an excellent, safe place for swimming and paddle boarding. I expected there to be a bit more push in the water as it ran from the river to the sea but on the days we were there that didn't seem to be the case (thankfully). We had one sunny day here and one rainy day (with a bonus rainbow!) and we visited at both high and low tide, I’d advise you go for low tide if you can. Paddling here was serene and again the water is shallow and clear, it’s hard to remember to look up when there are flat fish and minnows swimming around in the kelp below you.

We didn’t venture onto Loch Morar itself, obviously there’s the monster to consider (Morag) but on a serious note; it’s the deepest body of freshwater in Britain and it’s 18.8km long so you can imagine how wind might funnel down it. More than one local had warned me about big waves and rapidly changing conditions so I decided to play it safe and go elsewhere.

4: Glenuig

Glenuig is a tiny village around 17 miles from Arisaig and well worth a visit! Not only is there excellent paddling and swimming, there’s also the Glenuig Inn which is perfect for a cosy post swim lunch. We found a great spot about half a mile past the Glenuig Inn, it’s a small sandy bay which is sheltered by the mainland on two sides and an island in-front of you (which you could definitely reach on a calm day). On this occasion I’d forgotten the fin for my SUP (I’m still kicking myself) so I joined Graham for a swim and spent a very happy hour bobbing about in the turquoise waters gazing over to the small isles of Eigg and Rum.

5: Port Nam Murrach

6: Traigh Beach

Sadly I didn’t get a good paddle here, it was too windy both times I tried but we did have a couple of amazing swims. It’s similar to the skerries in that it’s shallow and there are lot’s of little islands to explore but (on a calm day) better for paddle boarding because you don’t have to go out very far to get in amongst the islands.

We swam here twice, both times early in the morning on blustery wet days. I’m always wary of being on or in the water on windy days but because the water was so shallow it felt safe and we had a couple of great swims being splashed in the face with salty water before retreating to the shore, getting wrapped up in blankets and warming up with a a cup of tea.

Before this trip I’d say I was a nervous swimmer and a novice paddle-boarder, I’m still no expert but getting out on the water every day taught me a lot. I learned about tides, about using shelter and how to navigate waves, I stood more, fell in less and ventured further out than I have before. As a swimmer I felt more comfortable in the water, the clear water helped ease my fear that there might be something lurking beneath me and I started to feel the peace and calm that open waters swimmer describe. I began to really crave the water, as soon as we got out I couldn’t wait to get back in!

This was an incredible week of mornings on the water, afternoons spent exploring the local area (or lazing about the cottage eating our body weight in scones) and wine soaked evenings cosied up in front of the fire. We returned to Glasgow sunburnt and with a car full of sand but gloriously happy and relaxed…..I did slightly forget I had a job tho, returning to work was a bit of a shock - take me back to Arisaig!

Where we stayed

Where we ate

Activities

Arisaig Sea Kayak Centre: https://arisaigseakayakcentre.co.uk

The Land, Sea and Islands Centre: http://www.road-to-the-isles.org.uk/centre/

Shout Out: Lomo who loan wetsuits for a mere £25 a week: https://www.lomo.co.uk/index.html

 
 
 

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