Isle of Barra
In September 2015 I went on my biggest solo trip to date. I booked a week off work and set off for the Outer Hebrides. I took the train from my home in Glasgow to Oban, boarded the ferry and begun the 5 hour sail to Castlebay. I love this ferry journey, it feels like a true sea voyage and naturally I have to spend the entire journey on the deck looking for whales and dolphins - all ferry journeys must be undertaken in this manner! Sadly on this occasion I was plagued with sea sickeness, all was well until we came out the top of Mull and into open water, the last 2 hours were not my finest.
I arrived in Castlebay exhausted and fell straight into bed. The next day I was up at dawn and too excited to stay in bed so I got up and went to explore, straight away I was treated to the sight of the super moon rising over the bay. Seeing that spectacle early in the morning, all alone on a far flung island was verging on magical. I spent the rest of the day climbing Heaval, having a picnic lunch on Vatersay beach (which I had completely to myself) and visiting a seal colony at Cleat (the first place I ever saw seals back in 2010, a life long fascination was born that day and I still search for them everywhere I go).
Throughout the week I cycled up Barra, crossed over to Eriskay and cycled on to South Uist where I hired a car and drove all the way to Lochmaddy, stopping off and exploring all the way back to Lochboisdale.
People often ask me if I get lonely travelling alone, hell no, I love it! That week was one of the best weeks of my life. I spent my evenings eating seafood (something I always crave after breathing in salty sea air all day), I curled up in bed every night and inhaled Outlander by Diana Gabaldon, I became fascinated by the Jacobites and visited Flora MacDonalds home and the place she and Bonnie Price Charlie escaped for Skye. I spent the week totally indulging myself and doing exactly as I pleased.
Getting on my bike every morning was like regaining a limb, it became part of me. I loved having nothing to worry about, nowhere to be and not knowing what was around the next bend, it's like a form of meditation for me. Whenever things get tough I crave going back to Barra, it feels like a physical pull, nothing beats being on an island away from everything you know.
Lismore Lighthouse, plain sailing at this point:
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Coll and Tiree in the distance as we hit open water:
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The sun setting on a sea sick ridden day:
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Sunrise:
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Super moon, super early in the morning in Castlebay:
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Early morning hike up Heaval:
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Met this majestic beast:
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Our Lady of the Sea guarding Castlebay:
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A seal pup at Cleat:
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White sands of Vatersay:
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Sand dunes:
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Sunset over Kismul Castle:
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Eriskay:
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How I travelled
ScotRail, Glasgow to Oban: https://www.scotrail.co.uk
Calmac Ferries Oban to Castlebay: http://bit.ly/1TpfMxD
Calmac Ferries Barra to Eriskay: http://bit.ly/29xCzed
Calmac Ferries Lochboisdale to Oban: http://bit.ly/2vfwdHH
Where I stayed Castlebay Hotel, Barra: http://www.castlebay-hotel.co.uk
Polochar Inn, South Uist: http://www.polocharinn.com​
Lochboisdale Hotel, South Uist: http://www.lochboisdale.com